Unbottling the Green Fairy: The History of Absinthe and How to Serve it

Ah, the infamous Green Fairy—a potion so legendary it’s inspired wild myths of hallucinogenic escapades and fueled the creative fires of some of history’s greatest minds. Maybe you’ve tried absinthe before (probably incorrectly, let’s be honest) or heard tales of its supposed madness-inducing properties. Fear not, intrepid explorer! Today, we’ll debunk those myths, uncover absinthe’s colorful history, and, most importantly, teach you how to serve it properly (spoiler: no fire involved).

The Enigmatic History of Absinthe

The origins of absinthe trace back to 18th-century Switzerland, where it was said to have been created as a medicinal elixir by the French physician (or perhaps “opportunist”) Dr. Pierre Ordinaire. Some accounts claim he stumbled upon or outright stole the recipe from Swiss herbalist Henriette Henriod. Blending wormwood, anise, and fennel with other herbs into a potent tonic, his patients swore by its miraculous healing powers—whether due to its herbal properties or sheer placebo effect remains a matter of debate.

By the 19th century, absinthe had crossed borders and become wildly popular in Europe and North America, finding favor among the creative elite—Vincent Van Gogh, Oscar Wilde, Ernest Hemingway, Arthur Rimbaud, and others. The allure of absinthe wasn’t just its high potency (often up to 74% ABV, or 148 proof) but its association with free thought and bohemian ideals.

French vs. Eastern European Styles:

• French absinthe, or Absinthe Vert, is celebrated for its striking green hue.

• Eastern European varieties (Absinth, sans "e") are typically lighter and paler.

The Rise and Fall of the Green Fairy

Absinthe’s popularity exploded after The Great French Wine Blight (1860s) when the wine industry was devastated by phylloxera infestations. With wine prices soaring, absinthe became the affordable drink of choice, beloved by both working-class laborers and avant-garde intellectuals.

Les Victimes de L'Alcool

Devil's Harvest

However, the rise of absinthe wasn’t without controversy. Much like America’s later "Reefer Madness", absinthe became the scapegoat for societal ills in France. The upper class, wary of workers and artists congregating in absinthe-fueled bars to discuss radical politics, launched a propaganda campaign against the "Green Curse."

Prominent figures like psychiatrist Valentin Magnan blamed absinthe for spikes in mental illness, alcoholism, and moral decline. The main accusation? Absinthe’s wormwood contained thujone, a compound rumored to cause hallucinations and madness. Modern science has since debunked this claim, showing that thujone levels in absinthe are too low to have any psychoactive effect—you’d succumb to alcohol poisoning long before experiencing any “visions.”

Nevertheless, hysteria prevailed, and absinthe was banned in France in 1915, following earlier prohibitions in other European countries. Its largest producer, Pernod, pivoted to a lower-ABV substitute, Pernod Pastis, while the original recipe was left to linger in obscurity—until its eventual resurrection.

The Modern Absinthe Revival

Absinthe’s comeback began in the late 20th century, as science cleared its name. Countries began lifting bans:

• France: Legalized absinthe production in 1988, though it couldn’t be labeled “absinthe” until 2011, when EU regulations changed.

• United States: Absinthe returned in 2007, regulated by thujone limits (<10 ppm).

• Switzerland: The birthplace of absinthe legalized it again in 2005.

Today, absinthe can be enjoyed globally, with only a few holdouts (cough Ireland, Serbia, Turkey cough). Its allure endures, drawing enthusiasts eager to rediscover its mystique.

Preparation (French Absinthe Drip Method)

Now that you can regale your guests with the history of absinthe during the relatively lengthy preparation process, let's get into how to serve it!

We'll be going over the traditional French method of serving absinthe - sorry no lighting anything on fire today! Serving absinthe isn’t just about preparation—it’s a ritual. The French drip method highlights absinthe’s complexity and elegance. Here’s what you need to do it:

• Absinthe glass: This specially designed style of glassware is designed to easily ratio your absinthe and water - though you could use other tall wide-brimmed cocktail glasses and a liquid measure in a pinch.

• Absinthe spoon: This is an ornate, flat perforated spoon designed to sit on top of the glass as the water drops through the sugar. Any flat object that is long enough to sit across the glass while also allowing water to fall into the glass would work fine in place of this - though not with the same aesthetic effect!

• Dripper: The three main different methods of dripping water into the drink are fountains, balanciers (drippers), or brouilleurs.

  • Fountain: Crystal decanter often with several spouts that allow for the preparation of multiple beverages at once with the turn of a tap. These are hard to come by and can be quite pricey - but they certainly elevate the experience!

  • Balancier (Dripper): A reservoir that sits along the brim of the glass and drips water down through the sugar cube through the use of a see-saw-like mechanism.

  • Brouilleur: A brouilleur is the simplest method of drip and does not require an absinthe spoon to prepare - it is a tray that simply sits a top of the glass and performs the job of spoon and dripper (Though with a little less pizzaz).

Absinthe glasses with absinthe spoon.

Absinthe fountain

Brouillier

Balancier

Time to pick out an absinthe! From what's available in the BC market, I prefer Tofino Distillery's Psychedelic Jellyfish, though several others are available on the market with rich histories such as St. George's Absinthe Verte (The American absinthe produced after the ban was lifted in 2007) or Green Tree Strong from the Czech Republic.

Green Tree Strong

Tofino Psychedelic Jellyfish

St. George Absinthe Verte

Now that we've got our spirit and our tools, let's get into it!

1. Grab your absinthe glass and pour 1oz into the glass - this should fill the bottom reservoir of the glass perfectly.

2. Place absinthe spoon (or brouilleur) across the glass - there is often a ridge on the handle that sits upon the brim of the glass. Place the sugar cube on the spoon.

3. Measure out somewhere between 3-5oz of ice-cold water and drip water through the sugar cube. This ratio can be adjusted depending on the ABV of the absinthe and taste preference - you may want closer to 3oz if your absinthe sits on the low end ~45% or 5oz if it sits more around ~73%.

4. Once the water and sugar have diluted into the glass - stir. The absinthe should turn a semi-opaque color from the oils in the wormwood - this is called louche.

   
   

There you have it! Absinthe is more than just a drink—it’s a portal to history, a ritual steeped in artistry, and a symbol of rebellion and creativity. Whether you’re captivated by its mystique, savoring its complex flavors, or intrigued by its misunderstood past, absinthe invites you to pause, reflect, and embrace the unconventional.

So, the next time you pour yourself a glass, raise it to the artists, thinkers, and dreamers who dared to see the world differently—because that’s the true magic of the Green Fairy. Santé!

Have you experienced the Green Fairy yourself? Share your favorite absinthe rituals, brands, or stories in the comments—how have you embraced its enchanting spirit?